Look Who's All Grown Up

As many of you may know, Charlie and I met while we were both backpacking in Thailand way back in 2001. It has taken us almost nine years to make a return trip, and it would be an understatement to say that Bangkok is much changed since we last saw it. It has been "Starbuck"-ed.

The old Bangkok airport had all the charm and architectural style of a late-1960s high school gymnasium and I think it had either a KFC or Burger King knock-off and that's about it. Bangkok's airport today is entirely chrome-plated and sells all the latest name-brand items.

In days gone by, the streets of the old Bangkok were choked with tuk tuks and mopeds and motorcycles. Now, although these modes of transport still exist, they are noticeably outnumbered by brand new cars that travel on newly-built double-decker toll super-highways.

In yesteryear, Khao San Road was the area for backpackers, who found double rooms down back alleys that smelled like urine for $5 a night. Now, there are loads of boutique hotels, as well as a Burger King, two Subway sandwich shops (on one block) and a Starbucks. This is convenient because many of the tourists who are staying on Khao San Road today have brought their toddler children. Khao San Road is no longer just a backpacker destination, but perhaps it never was - except to me.

Everywhere we go, Bangkok has become modern and up-market. Charlie is sick and tired of me saying things like, "There are skyscrapers in Bangkok? I don't remember seeing any skyscrapers last time we were here." And, "I can't believe that 'Buckets' (that elegantly named, crazy combination of Coca Cola, Thai Whiskey and Red Bull) now cost 200 Baht ($6) - they used to be 50 Baht ($1.25)!" He's made me promise to stop saying things like this, but I can't. And neither can he.

The best way I can describe the changes to Bangkok is by analogy to the actress Jennifer Grey, (aka "Baby" in Dirty Dancing) before and after her nose job. The plastic surgery may have made her more "conventionally" beautiful, but I kind of liked her more before, when she was more distinctive. That's the way I feel about the gentrified Bangkok of today.