Sunday, April 4, 2010

The Medina




The Medina is the old part of Marrakech and, indeed, most other Moroccan cities. It is encircled in large, fortress walls made of dirt and straw with little windows, presumably to shoot arrows through. The Medina consists of small alleys primarily for pedestrians, donkeys and, where the alleys are big enough, the odd scooter or motorcycle. In the Medina, shopkeepers hawk their wares, farmers offer their freshly-picked tomatoes, onions, peppers and herbs for your evening meal, butchers offer fresh cuts of meat, artisans practice their many crafts, women bake bread in communal ovens, children play ongoing games of football, and anyone who lacks hot water, as many do, can get it - and a scrub - at the local hammam (communal baths). The Medina is the heart of Moroccan cities, the center of its traditions and communities.

After Morocco gained independence from France, it became fashionable to move out of the Medina to the "Nouvelle Ville" - the New City - with its new roads for cars, and its modern conveniences such as electricity, running water, reliable sewage systems, and ample chain stores and fast food restaurants. Those who had money did just that.

In recent years, large houses in the Medina have been being snatched up by Europeans, mainly the French, for bargain prices and renovated into gorgeous riads (guesthouses) where more Europeans come to stay and pay relatively large sums of money for the privilege of doing so (despite the ubiquitous smell of sewage).

We have been told that the tide away from the Medina has swung back; people realize now that the Nouvelle Ville lacks the strong sense of community that exists in the Medina and they want that life back.

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